Skin longevity: un nuovo concetto di bellezza e salute

Skin longevity: a new concept of beauty and health

Dr. Stefania Cazzavillan
B.SC. Genetics, Functional and Integrative Medicine , Associate Prof. University of Milan, Scientific Committee Integrative Medicine Research Group (IMRG)

In the dynamic world of beauty and wellness, we are witnessing a significant change in the approach to skin care. If in the past the cosmetic industry was mainly focused on reducing the visible signs of aging, today it has shifted to a more holistic and preventive view, with inclusion of the concept of skin longevity.

This concept is not limited to minimizing wrinkles and improving skin texture, but aims to promote healthy and resilient skin to improve response to personal and environmental stress.

This transition marks a pivotal moment in aesthetic philosophy: moving from treating symptoms to treating the causes of skin aging with the goal of slowing it down and possibly reversing it.

Scientific advances that have enabled the development of cutting-edge technologies are helping us to decode the intricate mechanisms of aging, so we are at the forefront of a new era that aims to counteract the molecular mechanisms associated with aging in completely different ways than in the past.

Aging is associated with the increased inflammatory state due to metabolic alterations and the increase in free radicals that damage macromolecules (DNA, proteins, lipids) and alter the structure of the skin by disrupting the balance of collagen and elastin and creating the classic signs of aging (wrinkles, spots...) and the loss of hydration and firmness characteristic of “aged” skin.

Cutting-edge studies in the world of modern cosmetics have found important allies in adaptogens, powerful natural substances that help the body adapt to stressors by promoting balance and resilience without causing side effects; these include medicinal mushrooms, ancient Eastern remedies (Traditional Chinese Medicine), used topically, not just as supplements, with their high content of biologically active molecules such as beta-glucans, triterpenes, polyphenols, ergosterols and many others, are particularly effective adaptogens for improving skin defenses and supporting regenerative processes, thanks to the molecular mechanisms described for their action.

The mushrooms most widely used for numerous scientific studies in aesthetic and regenerative medicine are Ganoderma lucidum or Reishi and Cordyceps sinensis rich in cordicepin. Other mushrooms such as Hericium erinaceus, Polyporus umbellatus, Auricularia auricula judae and Lentinus edodes or Shiitake also have studies supporting their beneficial action on the skin.

Studies on Reishi and Cordyceps (titrated in chordiceps) applied topically have shown increased “longevity markers” (sirtuins - SirT1, SirT3 and SirT6, production of Atp, pro-Collagen I and elastin, and stress-protective effects through expression of Tlr3, free radical consumption and restoration of NAD levels).

The Sirtuins are highly studied longevity proteins and are involved in reducing inflammation and oxidative stress, regulating cellular processes, and prolonging lifespan in various organisms. At the skin level, they slow skin aging and contribute to cellular health and resistance to age-associated damage. ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the energy molecule in our cells, and optimal cellular energy reserve (optimal ATP levels) have been associated with longevity, reflecting efficient cell energy metabolism and thus optimal function.

The Pro-collagen Ia precursor to collagen (the most important structural protein in the skin), maintains the integrity and hydration of the skin and optimizes its structure. The improved production of collagen and elastin is due to improved function of fibroblasts, which synthesize these molecules to support skin structure and hydration. This effect is particularly important because, as we age, the total number of fibroblasts drops dramatically and their biological activity decreases. These physiological events begin after the age of 25 and gradually accelerate in the following years.

An even more important mechanism enacted by medicinal mushrooms is the activation of a particular form of immunity, described in nature only for mushroom beta-glucans, TRIM or “Trained Immunity.” Without going into very complicated details, one of the effects of TRIM is to activate a cross-communication between immune system cells and stem cells. Basically, stem cells are activated and guided to areas where tissue regeneration is needed. It is precisely the activation of TRIM that explains the regenerative activity of medicinal mushrooms evidenced over millennia, an activity that differentiates them from all other natural remedies.

By activating the skin's defenses and stem cells, the use of medicinal mushrooms improves skin composition and structure by increasing hydration, firmness, and radiance, resulting in a much younger appearance.

A study of Cordyceps titrated cordiceps on 40 volunteers (double-blind in vivo cosmetic-clinical test versus placebo) showed a significant increase in the number and functional efficacy of fibroblasts, collagen production, and improvement in overall dermal structure as early as 2 weeks of use. It increased ATP levels, reduced wrinkles, and improved skin appearance. This research proved pioneering in that it correlated (in aesthetic medicine) mitochondrial Atp production and skin appearance for the first time, demonstrating how cellular metabolism can affect the slowing of skin aging processes. Basically, Cordyceps enriched in chordiceps suppresses cellular senescence.

Thus, from the results of recent aesthetic medicine studies, it can be said that adaptogens, particularly medicinal mushrooms, are revolutionizing the cosmetic industry,introducing a new paradigm of conscious and lasting beauty, skin longevitywhere skin care is not only aesthetic, but also an investment in its health and vitality over time.